Friday, May 23, 2014

Nagi (Tokyo, Shinjuku-ku)

ラーメン凪 煮干王 (新宿ゴールデン街店)
らーめんなぎ にぼしおう
Ramen Nagi Niboshou (Shinjuku Golden Gai ten)

Special niboshi ramen: 18 / 20

Back to Tokyo for a few days! I took the night bus and arrived in Shinjuku at 6:15 in the morning. Obviously, that was a perfect time for a ramen-breakfast - the perfect occasion to finally try Nagi's, a mythical 24-hours open joint, in the fantastic area of Golden Gai. This restaurant is famous for being always full, and indeed when I arrived there, there was a small queue (yes, on a Friday at 6:40 in the morning). A steep stair leads you to a machine offering four choices: ramen, tsukemen, special ramen and special tsukemen (you can choose either 200g or 300g noodles, for the same price). I chose the special ramen and sat in the tiny-and-so-atmospheric restaurant, among tired clubbers (on a Friday morning, really?) and other sleazy night owls.



Broth: Nagi is famous for its intense niboshi-broth, and intense it is! If you don’t like niboshi, don’t even think of entering here. The fishiness will stick in your mouth for quite a time after you left the shop. A delicious fishiness, I must say - with maybe some roastiness? Definitely unique.

Noodles: Thick, curly, very pleasant noodles. Surprisingly, there were also a few flat noodles on the bottom on the soup, more on the soft side; not as deflightful as the curly ones, but they provided an interesting contrast and final note.

Meat: A couple of slices of hard-to-chew but savory pork. Definitely woke me up.

Egg: Slightly on the hard side, but high-quality.

Toppings: Some salty-and-slightly-sweet, classical menma. A few sheets of nori, which fit extremely well with the fishiness of the soup. A few green vegetables, just so that you can say you've taken care of your health.

The combination is beautiful. This ramen has punch - a bit dozy from the night in the bus, it kicked me back to reality. This it is the kind of broth you can easily feel in love with, like deep black shoyu, or, to take a more classical example, tonkotsu. The atmospheric, casual and friendly mood - and the unique Golden Gai area - adds of course to the charm. Do not miss this place.

More information on ramendb.

Other reviews: Ramen adventures, Time out, Umamimart

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